If you’ve never explored Manzanilla, La Jaca from Alvaro Domecq is the perfect place to start. Produced in Sanlúcar de Barrameda — the coastal town where the Atlantic breeze gives Manzanilla its uniquely saline, maritime character — this is Sherry at its most elegant and refreshing. Pale straw in the glass, the nose is hauntingly beautiful: chamomile, fresh almonds, and a distinctive briny, sea-air quality that is entirely its own. On the palate it’s bone dry, light, and wonderfully crisp, with a delicate yeasty complexity from the flor and a long, clean, saline finish. Serve well chilled as an aperitif, with olives, jamón, or fresh seafood — and prepare to be converted.