Sometimes only the real deal will do, and Sellador is one of ours. It’s made at Domaine Saint Jean de Villecroze, a small high-altitude estate up in the hills of the Haut Var — proper single-estate stuff, not just a label with “Provence” slapped on it. Enticing stone fruit and citrus on the nose, a silky texture balanced by refreshing acidity, and bone-dry peach and grapefruit flavours that go on and on. Brilliant with a warm goat’s cheese salad or grilled seafood, or just on its own on a warm evening — simply sublime. Six bottles at a special case price, because summer only comes once a year and you’ll want to be ready for it.