Waldschultz are fast becoming one of our favourite Austrian producers — and this Kamptal Grüner Veltliner shows exactly why. While their Wagram wines express the rich, loess-driven character of that remarkable plateau, this Grüner comes from the Kamptal — one of Austria’s most celebrated and prestigious wine regions, where the Kamp river cuts through ancient crystalline rock and volcanic soils to create conditions of extraordinary complexity and finesse. The Kamptal is the heartland of great Austrian Grüner Veltliner, and Waldschultz’s 2024 is a beautiful expression of why this region produces the variety at its most vibrant and complete. Pale gold in the glass, with a nose that is immediately fresh and inviting: crisp apple and pear, white pepper, and a lovely herby, asparagus edge that is the unmistakable signature of top-quality Grüner Veltliner from a serious site. On the palate it is lively and mineral, with peachy, citrus, and grapefruit aromas adding a wonderful freshness and vitality, before a long, tropical fruit finish arrives — and then, right at the end, that characteristic fresh peppery note that is Grüner Veltliner’s calling card and the detail that makes this grape like no other white in the world. Brilliant with food — particularly fish, shellfish, and the classic Austrian pairing of Wiener Schnitzel — and equally compelling on its own. At £19.99, it is Kamptal Grüner Veltliner of real quality and distinction.