Galicia has quietly become one of the world's great sources of fresh, Atlantic-influenced white wine over the past two decades — and this is a really interesting take on Albariño that goes well beyond the straightforward, easy-drinking style most people know.

The fruit comes from 21-year-old vines on schist soils in the O Rosal subzone, close to the sea — which gives it that beautiful saline, mineral edge. What really sets this apart is the winemaking: fermented in stainless steel, then six months on the lees, followed by six months in concrete eggs and a further six months in ceramic vessels. That's a lot of attention for an Albariño at this price, and it shows.

Vibrant, sharp and saline, with an austere stoniness that I find absolutely compelling. Only 8,950 bottles made. Drink it now or stash a few away — Albariño of this quality adds real richness and complexity with a few years in the bottle. Robert Parker gave it 92+ points and we can see exactly why. Drink now to 2029.