Arneis means “little rascal” in the Piedmontese dialect — a name earned over centuries of frustrating winemakers with its difficult, capricious nature in the vineyard and the cellar. By the 1970s it had nearly disappeared entirely, abandoned in favour of easier, more reliable varieties, and it was only the passion and determination of a handful of committed Piedmontese producers that saved it from extinction. Today, Arneis is recognised as one of Italy’s most distinctive and characterful white varieties — a grape of real personality and aromatic charm that is grown almost exclusively in the Roero, the sandy, ancient seabed hills on the left bank of the Tanaro river that face the more famous Langhe across the valley, and that produce whites of a delicacy, freshness, and floral complexity that are quite unlike anything else in Italian wine. Mario Giribaldi is one of the Roero’s most respected and dedicated producers, farming their Piedmontese vineyards with a commitment to quality and a deep understanding of the Arneis grape that is evident in every bottle. The 2023 is a beautiful, expressive Arneis: straw yellow with gold and green reflections in the glass, with an intense and captivating floral bouquet on the nose — white flowers and dandelion, delicate and completely beguiling. On the palate the floral notes are accompanied by ripe peach, apple, and a hint of melon, with a delicacy and harmony that carries through to a long, refreshing finish of real elegance and persistence. The little rascal, fully reformed — and at £21.99, one of the most original and rewarding Italian whites in our range.