Chénas is the rarest of all the Beaujolais Crus — the smallest, the least known, and arguably the most underappreciated. With fewer than 300 hectares under vine, it produces less wine than any other Cru in the appellation, and yet what it produces is some of the most compelling and age-worthy Gamay in all of France. The name itself comes from the ancient oak forests — chênes in French — that once covered these hillsides before the vines arrived, and something of that ancient, rooted character seems to persist in the wines: deeper, more structured, and more mineral than the lighter Crus to the south, with a seriousness and complexity that rewards those who seek it out. Franck Bessone is one of Chénas’ most dedicated and passionate producers, farming his vines with an unwavering commitment to expressing the true character of this remarkable terroir. En Mélardiére is a named parcel of particular quality, and the Tradition cuvée is made to showcase the vineyard at its most pure and honest. The 2023 is a beautiful expression of Chénas at its finest: deep red in the glass, with a fruity nose and a lovely mineral note that speaks directly of the granite soils beneath the vines. Full-bodied and flavoursome on the palate, with intense red berry fruit, fine silky tannins, and a mineral depth and persistence that sets it apart from everyday Beaujolais. This is Gamay as it was always meant to be — serious, structured, and deeply satisfying. At £25.99, it is one of the most rewarding discoveries in our range.