Lirac is one of the southern Rhône’s best-kept secrets — an appellation of real quality and character that sits in the shadow of its more famous neighbours, Châteauneuf-du-Pape and Tavel, on the right bank of the Rhône river, and that produces wines of a depth, complexity, and garrigue-scented character that stand comparison with the great names of the region at a fraction of the price. Like Châteauneuf, Lirac is built on the classic southern Rhône blend of Grenache, Syrah, and Mourvèdre — the holy trinity of the region — grown on the wild, sun-drenched limestone and garrigue-covered hillsides of the Gard, where the Mistral wind, the Mediterranean warmth, and the ancient soils combine to produce wines of a warmth, generosity, and aromatic intensity that is entirely and distinctively their own. Domaine Lafond Roc-Épine is one of Lirac’s most respected and celebrated estates — a family domaine with deep roots in the appellation, making wines that express the true character of this extraordinary corner of the southern Rhône with a precision and authenticity that has earned them a devoted following among those who know the region well. Roc-Épine — “thorny rock” — is a name that captures perfectly the wild, rugged beauty of the Lirac landscape: the limestone outcrops, the garrigue scrub, the ancient vines pushing their roots deep into the stony soil in search of water and mineral complexity. The 2022 Rouge is a classic southern Rhône of real distinction: a lovely mix of red and dark berry fruit on the nose, with hints of vanilla and pepper that speak of the Grenache and Syrah in the blend, combining with fine but plentiful tannins and a depth and persistence that carries through to a long, satisfying finish. At £23.99, it is Lirac at its most characterful and completely itself — the southern Rhône’s most rewarding secret.