St. Laurent is one of Austria’s most captivating indigenous red grapes — a variety of ancient origin, related to Pinot Noir, and capable of producing wines of extraordinary elegance and depth in the right hands. Lentsch is a respected Burgenland producer, and this Reserva is their most serious expression of the grape: a bolder, more concentrated style that shows what St. Laurent can achieve when yields are reduced and the fruit is given the time and care it deserves. The 2021 is a beautifully crafted wine — intense and compelling on the nose, with fresh bramble fruit, ripe blueberries, and a distinctive smoky edge that adds a lovely savoury complexity and sets it apart from a lighter, more everyday St. Laurent. On the palate it’s dense and robust, with a satisfying grippy tannic structure that gives the wine real presence and ageing potential, yet it remains remarkably approachable — the fruit is generous and the balance is excellent. Good depth, real complexity, and a long, rewarding finish. The kind of wine that rewards those who look beyond the obvious — and at £24.99 for a Reserva of this quality, it is outstanding value for Austrian red wine at its most serious.