Ripasso — repassed. It is a word that describes one of the most ingenious and distinctive winemaking techniques in all of Italy, and one that produces wines of a richness, depth, and complexity that are quite unlike anything else in the Veneto. The process is elegantly simple in concept and demanding in execution: the Valpolicella wine — already made from the classic Veronese blend of Corvina, Rondinella, and Molinara — is re-fermented on the dried grape skins left over from the production of Amarone, the great, concentrated red wine of the region. Those skins, still rich in sugars, colour, and flavour compounds, impart to the Ripasso a depth, richness, and complexity that transforms it from a straightforward Valpolicella into something altogether more serious and rewarding: a wine that carries the DNA of Amarone at a fraction of the price and with a generosity and approachability that makes it one of the most compelling and versatile reds in the Italian canon. San Cassiano is a dedicated Valpolicella producer with a deep understanding of the classic Veronese varieties and the Ripasso technique, making wines that express the true character of this extraordinary corner of north-eastern Italy with real authenticity and skill. The 2020 Superiore is a wine of real richness and depth: a rich fruit nose with the sweetness of dried fruit and a hint of spice that speaks directly of the Amarone skins and the complexity they impart. Medium-full bodied on the palate, with excellent length and a persistence and warmth that make it as rewarding with food as it is on its own. At £25.99, it is the Veneto’s most compelling secret — Amarone’s approachable, generous younger sibling.