Castiglion del Bosco was one of the 25 founding members of the Brunello consortium. They've been making wine here since the early 1900s. Fair to say they've got their eye in.

This 2020 Brunello di Montalcino comes from their Capanna vineyard in the north-west of Montalcino, where altitude and stony galestro soils give Sangiovese its backbone. The vintage put that backbone to the test: a dry winter, a cold, wet May, then 64 summer days without rain. Relief finally arrived at the end of August. The result? Brunello with the volume turned up, but its manners intact.

Ripe dark cherry and crushed blackberry, grilled herbs, woodsmoke and cigar box, with a little flinty edge. Full-bodied, long and properly silky. Vinous called it “textures of pure silk”, and you can see why. The tannins are tucked in rather than sticking out, and fresh acidity keeps everything moving. At 14.5% ABV, with 20% new oak, there's plenty of weight without the mouthful of furniture.

Six bottles. Proper Brunello. No need to overcomplicate it.