Here’s a wine with a story. La Bouïssère is widely regarded as one of the finest estates in Gigondas — a producer making some of the most compelling Southern Rhône reds of the modern era. But they also have a small parcel of Merlot vines, and here’s the twist: Merlot is a non-permitted grape in the Rhône appellation system. So rather than pull the vines out, they blend it with Grenache and Syrah to create this — a Vin de France that carries all the DNA of a great Gigondas but plays by its own rules. The result is magnificent. Big, dark fruit of blackberry and plum, complex spice of clove and cinnamon, and a seductive hint of tobacco on the nose. On the palate the tannins are firm and structured but work in perfect harmony with the fruit, creating a wine of real depth and presence. At £20.99, it punches way above its weight — and knowing the estate behind it makes it even more compelling.